Azerbaijan Embroideries

The techniques and compositions of Azerbaijan embroideries have reached us through the centuries. The Italian traveller Marco Polo ( 13th century ) noted the beauty of silk wares from Shemakha and Barda. The English merchant and traveller Anthony Jenkinson ( 16th century ) who had visited the local ruler in his summer residence marvelled at its splendour. «The king was sitting in a rich tent embroidered in silk and gold» , he wrote adding that the ruler’s garments were decorated with pearls and gems. Embroideries were made on locally produced canaus, darei or velvet. The art prospered in Shemakha, Baskal, Gyanzha, Sheki, Shusha and other Azerbaijan towns. The more popular and widespread type of embroidery in Azerbaijan were gold stitch, satin-stitch, chainstitch, «bird’s eye» technique, the use of spangles, glass beads and stamped plaques, quilting , applique, spiral and fillet work. Gold stitch on a very tight fabric is the oldest type. The emproideres used factory-made gold or silver threads. This type of embroidery was called gyulyabatyn. Chane-stitch type was widespread among the silk embroidery. In the 19th century the town of Sheki was the main producer of chain-stitch embroideries. Satin-stitch type was also in favour. For this technique silk or woolen threads of soft pastel shades were commonly used, often in combination with gold threads. Another widespread technique was «bird’s eye» - embroidery in white of colour silk. Quilting decorated arakhchyn ( skullcap) , shabkulakh ( night cap) , prayer rugs and woolen garments. Of major interest is pearling and beading, an old manner of decorating garments, household articles, etc.